The Cave of Sicky Sickness

Posted On 6:28 PM by Chubblez |

My friend Paul showed me his super-route on Saturday. It's a 27-meter roof, high, high up in the Flatirons that he led on all-trad gear. 5.12d.












It's in a giant Ghetto/Ghetto Simulator slot,with the ceiling 20 feet above the slab and a magnificent arch/window near the top of the climb.


Paul's ascent of this climb, Inside Passage, is a visionary, master-class ascent. No bolts, no fixed pins, way, way up a hill. He went up there multiple times, aiding it to get it clean, learning the moves, putting in burns. Paul has been climbing in the Flatirons for about 25 years now, and if you live around Boulder and are a fan of the Flatirons, you'll know him as an underground hero. The man behind the Ghetto, with John Dunn; many of the first ascents on Dinosaur Mountain; king of the barefoot double dyno; etc.


I was too tired/intimidated to get on Inside Passage that day, and the dog was down below (you have to solo up in there) in cougar territory, howling like a baby, but I'd like to come back. Maybe later this year, or go get a "good" trad head and try it in the spring. This route has the most presence of any rock climb I've ever seen, anywhere.

Hats off to Paul! Props, yo...

This must surely rank as the s00kreemiest of the s00kreem!!!


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2 Response to 'The Cave of Sicky Sickness'
  1. Taylor Roy
    https://sookreem.blogspot.com/2008/09/cave-of-sicky-sickness.html?showComment=1224528900000#c1438779020775547446'> October 20, 2008 at 11:55 AM

    Where is this thing? It looks totally amazing.

     

  2. Mannphoto
    https://sookreem.blogspot.com/2008/09/cave-of-sicky-sickness.html?showComment=1229121120000#c93158974171426686'> December 12, 2008 at 2:32 PM

    gimmie!